Dinner
Rigatoni Recipe From Scratch (Tomato, Pancetta and Pecorino)
By Trevor Farias · Updated · 35 minutes total · 4 servings
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In a nutshell
For the best rigatoni, render diced pancetta slowly in olive oil until crisp, soften onion and garlic in the fat with a pinch of chili flakes, then add crushed San Marzano-style tomatoes and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Boil the rigatoni 2 minutes short of al dente, finish it in the sauce with a ladle of starchy pasta water and a splash of cream until the sauce clings to every tube, and toss with grated Pecorino Romano and Parmesan.
This is the bowl of rigatoni you get at a good Roman trattoria: big ridged tubes coated in a glossy tomato sauce studded with crisp pancetta, with a gentle warmth from chili and a heap of sharp Pecorino on top. It is made entirely from scratch with pantry ingredients, and it is on the table in about thirty-five minutes.
It is a close cousin of the classic Roman amatriciana, with a small splash of cream stirred in at the end to round out the tomatoes and help the sauce cling. Leave the cream out for the traditional version; both are wonderful.
Rigatoni is the right shape for a chunky sauce. The ridges grab the sauce, and the wide tubes trap little pieces of pancetta inside, so every forkful has a bit of everything.
Why this recipe works
- Rendering the pancetta slowly makes it crisp and leaves flavorful fat to cook the onion and garlic in.
- Simmering the tomatoes for 15 to 20 minutes concentrates them into a sauce with body without losing freshness.
- Finishing the pasta in the sauce with starchy pasta water emulsifies the sauce so it coats the rigatoni instead of pooling in the bowl.
- Adding the cheese off the heat keeps it from clumping.
Ingredient notes and substitutions
Pancetta is Italian cured pork belly. Guanciale, cured pork jowl, is what Romans use in amatriciana and is even richer. Thick-cut bacon works too; it adds a smoky flavor. Buy it in a chunk and dice it yourself if you can, since pre-diced pancetta is often too thin to crisp.
Use good canned whole tomatoes and crush them by hand; they have better flavor than pre-crushed tomatoes. Pecorino Romano is salty and sharp; Parmigiano-Reggiano is nuttier and milder. A mix of both is excellent. Buy bronze-cut rigatoni if you see it; its rough surface holds sauce better.
Why you should save the pasta water
The cloudy water the rigatoni cooks in is full of starch. A splash of it added to the pan binds the fat, tomato and cheese into a silky sauce that clings. Scoop out a mugful before draining, and add it a few tablespoons at a time as you toss. If the sauce tightens as it sits, a little more loosens it right back up.
How to store rigatoni
- Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container for up to 4 days. Reheat in a skillet with a splash of water.
- The sauce, without pasta or cheese, freezes for up to 3 months.
Variations to try
- Classic amatriciana: use guanciale, skip the onion and cream, and finish with Pecorino only.
- Spicy vodka rigatoni: skip the pancetta, add 1/4 cup vodka after the garlic and use 1/2 cup cream.
- Sausage rigatoni: replace the pancetta with 1 pound crumbled Italian sausage.
- Baked rigatoni: toss with the sauce and 8 ounces diced mozzarella, top with Parmesan and bake at 400°F for 20 minutes.
Frequently asked questions
- Can I make rigatoni without pancetta?
- Yes. For a vegetarian version, cook the onion in 3 tablespoons olive oil with a pinch of smoked paprika for a hint of smokiness, and add more cheese at the end.
- What is the difference between rigatoni and penne?
- Rigatoni are wider tubes with straight-cut ends and deep ridges. Penne are narrower and cut on a diagonal. Rigatoni holds chunky sauces better.
- Why is my pasta sauce watery?
- It needs more simmering, or the pasta was not finished in the pan. Tossing the pasta in the sauce with starchy pasta water for a couple of minutes thickens and binds it.
- Is cream traditional in this sauce?
- Not in a Roman amatriciana. It is an optional addition here to mellow acidic tomatoes and make the sauce a little silkier.
Recipe card
Rigatoni Recipe From Scratch (Tomato, Pancetta and Pecorino)
Rigatoni from scratch with a rich tomato sauce of crisp pancetta, garlic, a little chili and a splash of cream, finished with pasta water and a snowfall of Pecorino Romano. Ready in 35 minutes.
By Trevor Farias · Updated
- Prep
- 10 minutes
- Cook
- 25 minutes
- Total
- 35 minutes
- Makes
- 4 servings
Ingredients
Equipment
- Large pasta pot
- 12-inch deep skillet or sauté pan
- Colander
- Microplane or fine grater
Instructions
Boil the water
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously, about 1 tablespoon of kosher salt per 4 quarts.
Render the pancetta
Put the olive oil and pancetta in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is golden and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Scoop out about a third of the pancetta for garnish.
Cook the aromatics
Add the onion to the skillet and cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook 1 minute, until fragrant. Pour in the wine, if using, and simmer until nearly evaporated.
Simmer the sauce
Add the crushed tomatoes and salt. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and the oil begins to separate at the edges, 15 to 20 minutes.
Cook the rigatoni
While the sauce simmers, cook the rigatoni in the boiling water for 2 minutes less than the package directions. Scoop out 1 cup of pasta water, then drain.
Finish in the sauce
Add the drained rigatoni to the sauce with the cream, if using, and 1/4 cup of pasta water. Cook over medium heat, tossing constantly, for 2 minutes until the pasta is al dente and the sauce is glossy and clinging.
Tip: Add more pasta water a splash at a time if the sauce looks dry. It should flow slightly, not sit in clumps.
Add the cheese and serve
Remove the pan from the heat, add the Pecorino and Parmesan and toss until melted into the sauce. Serve topped with the reserved crisp pancetta, more grated cheese and torn basil.
Notes
- Save a cup of pasta water before draining.
- Undercook the rigatoni by 2 minutes; it finishes in the sauce.
- Add the cheese off the heat so it melts smoothly.
Nutrition (per serving, estimated)
| Calories | 720 |
|---|---|
| Fat | 28 g |
| Saturated fat | 12 g |
| Carbohydrates | 90 g |
| Fiber | 6 g |
| Sugar | 9 g |
| Protein | 28 g |
| Sodium | 1250 mg |
| Cholesterol | 60 mg |
Serving size: 1 of 4. Nutrition is calculated from standard ingredient data and will vary with brands and substitutions.
Recipe from Trevor's Kitchen · https://trevorfarias.com/recipes/rigatoni
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